First week of classes; Kyle goes Native; Genla lets me cup his feet

School actually started two weeks ago, but I'm just now getting around to posting this. Here's an overview: the week begins with Genla's Master's Level: "Tibetan Buddhism" class, Monday afternoons from 1.30-4.30.  It's a pretty full class. Some of the people in the class have been at IBC through their BA degree, and are thus well versed in Buddhist philosophy. Others got their BA's in their home country and are struggling with both the level of academics and english. Some of the MA students truly have a rudimentary english level, and I expect that a few of them will not make the minimum required GPA to stay here another semester. Genla's class is great - and so far packed with information and amazing readings (this week we read the second half of Gompopa's Ornament of Liberation). Wednesday's (again from 1.30-4.30) "Buddhism and Society" meets. The professor raised some interesting questions (albiet outdated) in his exceedingly brief first lecture. Nonetheless, I think it might be a somewhat interesting class, that is if my ears can adjust to the professor's incredibly thick Indian accent. On Fridays "Theravada Buddhism" meets. Again, the professor's Indian accent is tough; however, I'm encouraged by some ideas that I have for the paper. "Schools of the Abhidharma" meets Monday through Friday from 5-8pm (!), although apparently the class only meets for something like 3 weeks.  The professor, Charles Willemen, is quite a bright and accomplished scholar.  European by birth, his teaching and analytical style is clearly Western (and refreshingly ironic).  I'm already lamenting the fact that this class will be so short, yet I hope to keep an open dialogue with him in conjunction with my other classes.

On the home front and around town, Kyle's taken to doning this totally Thai hat, which gives everyone a good chuckle. 

He's loving biking all around our little town, Pak Thong Chai, shamelessly trying out his Thai with everyone who will listen. As you imagine, he's quite popular with the locals, and -  thanks to the doggy treats he now carries around in his bike basket - he's even making friends with some of the more curmudgeonly neighborhood dogs.

Genla, who has resisted letting me cup him for nearly a year, finally let me cup his feet which have been swelling from the heat. It worked to reduce the swelling, but only temporarily, and Julia has confirmed that it's not the right treatment; and unfortunately I don't have the necessary herb. In the States, Genla wore compression socks (which I'm not a huge fan of because they don't seem to actually heal the problem, but instead just make it somewhat more bearable). Regardless, it's simply too hot here to wear them.  I need to research having the tincture sent here by mail.

Speaking of healing topics, yesterday I got my first Thai massage here in Pak Thong Chai. 1/2 the price of Bangkok (so about 5$), and it was much better than Bangkok. I will definitely frequent this quiet and small 'ladies only' spa.  And as soon as my Thai gets a little better (it's all but non-existent just now), I'll inquire with these ladies about some of the lesser known Thai healing modalities that I've heard of. 

Tonight we're having an India woman who is a professor at IBC (and whom Genla's known since the 60's when they were both at Sanskrit University), and a BA student from Nepal over for dinner. So soon we'll be off to the market to gather ingredients for mo-mo's (Tibetan dumplings). 

Orientation.

People often ask, especially about my travels, if it was "like you expected". Because I don't like disappointment and also because things rarely turn out the way one expects,  I try my best not to anticipate things, especially when I travel. So I was a bit surprised that I had so many latent expectations surrounding orientation, which was both a drag and a delight. A drag because it consisted of a lot of long speeches - delivered very slowly by people for whom English is a second or third language, to an audiance whose English - in some cases - is rudimentary at best. A delight because the community here at IBC is shining and exuberant. I've never seen a group of people so eager, so openly kind, so fresh. Because I've been with Genla, we've had several dinners and discussions with top administration and the founder of IBC, and based on my extremely favorable impressions,  I expected a more professional orientation. My expectations were of course also colored by previous orientations in the States. However, what was lacking in organization and sophistication, was doubly made up for by the warmth and sincerity of community itself. 

The overwhelming majority of students here are monastics from South East Asia.  The South East Asian countries are known for observing the monastic vows very strictly, so I was a bit worried about how I'd be received as a woman. There was in fact a bit of a commotion during one of the ice-breaker games when we were all asked to hold hands (traditionally it's a breach of a monk's vows to touch a woman); many of the monastics (nuns and monks alike) were visibly disturbed, and some refused to play. The young monks who organized the games/orientation acknowledged the breach (not all monks are equally strict) and ritually resolved the infraction - presumably according to tradition - yet without due sensitivity to the women, who were asked to apologize for touching the monks.  Because the administration is open-minded and because the school is so clearly in its fledgling years, they encourage constructive feedback.  I am drafting a letter which I hope will encourage a more proactive consideration of the lay community, specifically lay women. I will say, however, that this community, rumored to be so conservative,  seems more open than other Asian Buddhist cultures in terms of their treatment and views of women. When I heard Jetsunma Tenzin Palmo (the first Western - born in Britain - ordained Tibetan nun who spent 12 years meditating in a cave in the Himalayas) speak this spring, she said the monastics, particularly in Asia, are supported primarily by woman. In fact, I believe the principle funder for IBC is a woman. The power we as women hold for change could not be more tangible, and I hope to be a tactful conduit for some much needed advancement of the role of women. 


On a lighter note, the last day of orientation (Saturday) was a field trip to various near-by temples. About 30 monks, 3 professors and the hand full of lay students piled into a large, top-heavy bus and made our way down the road, greedily munching on milk and cookies. Not long after we started our journey, some of the monks began chanting the Metta Sutra in Pali for our safe journey.  Here's an English translation:

This is what should be done

By those who are skilled in goodness,

And who know the path of peace:

Let them be able and upright,

Straightforward and gentle in speech.

Humble and not conceited,

Contented and easily satisfied.

Unburdended with duties and frugal in their ways.

Peaceful and calm, and wise and skillful,

Not proud and demanding in nature.

Let them do not the slightest thing

That the wise would later reprove.

Wishing, in gladness and in safety,

May all beings be at ease.

Whatever living beings there may be;

Whether they are weak or strong, omitting none,

The great or the mighty, medium, short or small,

The seen and the unseen,

Those living near and far away,

Those born and to-be-born –

May all beings be at ease!

Let none deceive another

Or despise any being in any state.

Let none through anger or ill-will

Wish harm upon another.

Even as a mother protects with her life

Her child, her only child,

So with a boundless heart

Should one cherish all living beings;

Radiating kindness over the entire world:

Spreading upward to the skies,

And downward to the depth;

Outward and unbounded,

Freed from hatred and ill-will.

Whether standing or walking, seated or lying down,

Free from drowsiness,

One should sustain this recollection.

This is said to be the sublime abiding.

By not holding to fixed views,

The pure-hearted one, having clarity of vision,

Being freed from all sense desires,

Is not born again into this world.

The Chinese Sangha then chanted the Heart Sutra in Chinese. Genla, Kyle and I then chanted in Tibetan. It was a hauntingly beautiful way to begin a journey; and despite the various debacles of the first two days of orientation, I was once again reminded of how special IBC is.



The most amazing place we visited was Phimai, an astonishing 9th century temple. 

We also visited a Banyan tree that is 350 years old.  Banyan trees put down long tenacle-like roots from their branches. Over time, the roots slowly grow together, become woody and reach deep into the earth.  This ancient Banyan spans what seemed to me about 1/4 acre, and has lovely paths and alcoves with benches and tables. It's surrounded by water and little bridges. There's also a small shrine from where the delicate smell of incense floats through the branches, making it all the more magical. 

Today we continued our work in making a home (Kyle biked all over town  - with me perched on a little seat on the back - as we shopped for a desk). Tomorrow is the first day of classes . . .

THAILAND!!

We've been in Thailand for about a week and a half  - and  so far all three of us quite like it. We spent the first three nights in Bangkok, staying with a warm-hearted Indian family, which made the cultural transition much smoothier. Our host, Ram, was exceptionally kind in ferrying us (sometimes literally on the muddy river that flows through Bangkok) from temple to temple.

The temples here really are extraordinary.

I don't think that anyone who has traveled to India would find Bangkok dirty or off-putting. It is however unplanned and for the most part it looks like a second world country; but parts of it, such as the banking district, are like any other major modern city - plush and polished.  


Where we are living is about a 4-hour drive north east of Bangkok in a medium sized town, Pak Thong Chai, which is itself about 35 minutes from the second largest city in Thailand, Korat. The side streets of our little town look a bit like India, with dark, un-airconditioned shops selling dusty bagged potato chips and an inexhaustible array of plastic odds and ends. The streets are hot - it appears no one had the foresight to leave any tress - but they're very clean, albeit studded with stray dogs. Many businesses and local residents have potted orchids and other such plants on their stoops.  


Our home is quite lovely, and about a 3 minute walk to the International Buddhist College (IBC), whose gate is pictured below. 

While the campus is indeed modest, it is shaded by tall trees, has a couple of vegetable gardens, a few class rooms, library, dorms and whatnot. Apparently they are preparing for some new construction. The Korat campus, as this is known, is a satellite to the main campus in Southern Thailand, although one day Korat will be the main campus. The next couple of weeks are reserved for registration and orientation - classes start July 9. But ... back to our house. 


It is fairly large, with a spacious and airy living room, three bedrooms and two baths. The inside is definitely in need of a fresh coat of paint, but the shiny tile floor (patterned and colored to look like hard wood) somehow almost makes up for it. Genla's bedroom has its own bath; the other bath connects to our bedroom and the hallway. The bathrooms are - much to my dismay - "India" style, which means that there is no designated shower area. There's hot water (!) and a shower head, but no curtain or the like, so the whole bathroom floor gets wet when you shower. In fact, you can actually shower while sitting on the toilet if you choose!

There is a new and quiet AC in our room, but not in Genla's - although he doesn't mind. Actually, he doesn't even use his fan during the day, which although hot, is not oppressive. Our kitchen is fairly bare-bones and we've spent a good amount of time outfitting it with gas burners, steel pots, a new cabinet, etc. We basically didn't use much of what IBC thoughtfully provided for us (aluminum pots, an electric hot plate, etc). We are, however, still using the typically Asian mugs with Bugs Bunnies on them for the time being!

The food is great, and not *too* spicy.  Each day, there's a morning and evening market. The morning market has all sorts of things; the evening market has just foods. You can buy freshly cooked street food,  home-made curry sauces or fresh veggies and fruits. The fruits are amazing. The veggies are not as flavorful as ours. The spices are - as of yet - still mostly a mystery to us.  The best part for me is that a fresh young coconut is about 30 cents (compared to a dollar in Bangkok). I'm already on very friendly terms with the coconut man!

I suppose that's all for now. Pictures of the house and college to come. . .